We made it! Too tire to post tonight. Pics etc will come.

Tony and I were determined not to make our longest scheduled walk longer than necessary. Our last leg was to be 16 miles, but often the routes were much longer even when we stayed on track. We both agreed to check the map often and to voice any concern about our route right away. We had breakfast in the Solarium at the Old Mill and headed out. It was muggy and warm and seemed to threaten rain.

The Lion Inn is a lovely old place, built like a rabbit warren. The bathrooms and bedrooms are updated and very nice. Breakfast was delicious with fresh eggs, bacon, and toast. We looked over our maps and started out with high hopes of a shorter day on the road.

One of Lion Dining Areas

Lion Inn

Unlike Monday we made our mistake right at the beginning rather than waiting to the last bit. We knew we should see White Betty which our map shows as a cross. In our eagerness to see Betty we overlooked our turn and took the next right. Our little mistake added 4 miles to our day. A twelve miler became an unfortunate 16. Just as we turned around into the wind it began to rain with a bit more intent.

Road on the moors from Lion Inn

View from the road.

Sign we should have turned at.

Not White Betty

White Betty

Once we got to the real White Betty, we were on the right track and looked VERY carefully for the right signs.

We had a turn off the road by the carved stone up the Great Fryup Lane.

Carved. Stone

Round this gate and onto a track.

Trough House one of our markers

Odd, but lovely flowers that look like sheep wool.

Track was rocky and just went on and on.

We had occasional showers and kept putting on and taking off our rain jackets. It wasn’t cold, but occasionally it got windy.

Cairn

Fence and gate at end of path.

On a road

We took the track to the right while road went to left.

Road across moor land with farms on the valley to our right.

There were lots of tracks and paths off this road. We kept looking for the tarn, but it seemed a long time before it appeared.

Tarn

Arncliffe

Building in Arncliffe

Gentleman I chatted with. These are seven sister roses.

Beggar’s Bridge

Footpath through the woods

Egton Bridge is absolutely charming with its stately stone buildings, gorgeous gardens, and charming, but in need of repair bridge.

Egton Bridge

Where we had supper

Tony’s pint

Yet again, we managed to turn a 9.5 mile hike into 14 mile jaunt. I slept nine much needed hours and we had planned a later breakfast and start due to the shorter route. The morning was misty and cool, perfect for walking, but not so great for visibility.

Our host’s friend Gary drove us back to the start of Clay bank where we had been picked up yesterday, worn, weary, and sore. We immediately took the wrong trail which Tony realized when he glanced to the right and saw the stone pavers for our ascent up Clay Bank Top. Instead of going back down Tony elected to take a short cut, through a thicket, cut down tree limbs, and a climb over a stone fence. Oh yeah, we were off to a famous start!

Starting up the wrong hill trail.

Tony’s shortcut through thicket, cut down tree limbs, etc. nice three inch gash across my leg from this treat.

The correct route.

The start began immediately climbing steeply up hill on rocks placed to form a madman’s idea of a stair.

Climbing carefully

Top with warning sign about steep descent which we just came up.

The weather was still cool with mist obscuring all the distant vistas. We were high up on the moor, but could barely see beyond the marked path at times. I can’t imagine how disorienting it could be before these well made paths were placed.

Cairns to mark the way.

Second cairn at top

Third cairn with a group of young hikers heading the other way.

Marker stones along the way

What is on this marker?

After that group of young men we saw no other hikers along the way.

Sheep were baaing across the moors

There were sheep spread out across the moor. We also were quite surprised to see headlights.

Car on moor, farmer ?

We kept looking at the maps checking to make sure we were on track or to locate where we were.

Marker with face

Tony checking map.

The pond

Off on a narrow track that went through some boggy parts.

Sheep by a message board about the moors

Path continues in the mist

We saw these offerings? Along the way. What are they?

Beautiful greens on the moors

Walking

Muddy track

More offerings?

Sides drop away but valley in mist.

We were still back on map 80 when we came to this sign So we didn’t turn.

Welcome to Blakey where we should have turned

We did get to see this nice view.

What we saw on our extra excursion.

After walking quite a way, realizing we saw none of the signs we should, we turned around and headed back. By then we sort of figured out our mistake.

Heading back the right way see The Lion.

Walking into The Lion

Had a much needed shower and supper. Now I am heading for bed. No wifi in room or I’d already be there. Tomorrow another adventure!

Today’s 12.5 mile walk ended up being 18.85 miles and a climb of 3,120 feet. It was a tough one. Only my hard headed stubbornness kept me going toward the end.

It really started out beautifully too. The Swan is a delightful place to stay with lovely rooms, good hot showers, excellent food, and delightful owners. Tony and I had a yummy breakfast and Christine dropped us off by where she picked us up yesterday so we,could continue our walk.

Tony leaving

Yes, more sheep

Signpost

The Blue Bell Inn

Slept beautifully with an open window wafting cool breezes over my bed, just how I like it. Another delicious breakfast was enjoyed and we set out on the road again.

The White Swan

We saw two pairs of joggers and several cyclists heading back toward Danby Wiske as we walked out of town.

Tony on road out of Danby Wiske

Fields off the road as we walked out of town.

Right before Lazenby Farm there was a bridge over a railway and a passenger train went rocketing by. It was an interesting contrast to my slow pace and the calm and quiet of the country road.

Lazenby Hall Farm

The route was different than our map, but a large sign showed us where to turn. Instead of crossing a farmers field, we were directed down a lane past the farms.

Sign showing our turn

Farm on road

First manicured hedge in farmland we have seen.

Building on corner where we turned to get on the A167

farm off A167

We turned off the road onto a track to a farm. The signage on this part of our walk was really quite good.

Lots of stiles to climb

Walking through farms with a bit of shade.

Tony on track leading the way

Cows resting, but no rain

Walking single file through farmers crops

Lots of clouds, but patches of blue skies too.

We walked through a tree lined alley alongside a farm. Glad it was dry because this would have been a muddy mess manure mess otherwise

Tony by some of the wonderful signage for our route

Crossing fields

Tony on road

Moor House

Walking through fields was often not a straight line, but full of turns.

Walking through herds of livestock. That is a BULL!

Tony walking through high weeds…lookout for nettles!

More cows

We had to climb over the gate and then walk on this rickety board bridge over   a deep but dry trench. Sometimes it felt like a par course.

Stole and bridge

North field Farm

There was a couple outside a some dogs who barked at us. I told them I liked the skull. The young man just looked chagrined, I am probably old enough to be his grandmum.

Skull on their gate. I guess they don’t want anyone to wander about.

Rat nailed to post. They really don’t want you to mess around.

Road to Wray Farm

Wray farmland

We met a fellow hiker sitting on the steps on the other side having an early lunch. We had crossed paths itch him before.

Railroad crossing. Look carefully because they move fast!

Shortly after we crossed the tracks a train hurtled by itch a couple crossing just ahead of it. They had been doing the Coast to Coast on weekends. They expected to finish on a weekend in August. This British couple were a lot less footsore than us!

Train and two more hikers behind us.

We followed a farm road as it twisted and turned like a snake through farms.

Farm on the road

Horse in field with wild flowers along this road.

We almost missed our turnoff because we weren’t impressed by the posts.

Impressive Brick Gateposts?

Drive way of farm

Tony walking on driveway looking for a place to stop and eat our meager lunch.

Our lunch spot. We had half a small cheese sandwich between us. Plus a balance bar.

Sydal Lodge

More field crossing

Tony having his first pint

John our host at the bar

Our door room 4

My bed awaits.

Lovely breakfast and good company with our hosts, Denise and Bob, and of course Tony. Morning sunny with a cool breeze, but the day will again be quite warm. Our hike today is listed as 12 1/2 miles – “a simple walk”.

View from our bedroom this morning.

Garden at Springfield House

Leaving our B & B

Village of Reeth

After walking through a bit of the village we headed for the footpath along the stream. Farmlands were all around us too.

Footpath along stream

View of fields leaving Reeth

The path continued and the stream joined the River Swale. We saw a man throwing sticks into the water for his dog to chase. It was already warm and tempting to join them.

Footpath through fileds

Our path then took us down by the river on a narrow, steep, muddy, rocky and thankfully short walk that left us on a farm road.

On farm road

We were off the mapped route, but a nice older cople assured us that the road lead to the Marrick Priory.

Cows, cows, cows

This was one of the first non-stone barns we have seen on our walk.

Marrick priory outdoor Center

We met two shirtless, strapping young men by the Priory. They were doing the Coast to Coast in 8 days as a fund raiser for prostate cancer research. Their leg of the trip for  today was 30 miles! One offered to take picture of us.

Mary and Tony by the Priory

After we left the Priory we headed onto a path that lead uphill. The Nuns’ steps offered some lovely shade and a fairly sure footed climb up above the valley.

Nuns’ Steps

We passed through a collection of buildings which make up the village of Marrick.

Marrick – old Schoolhouse

Then we were once again walking through pastures, and climbing gates and stiles.

Walking through pastures and then over gates 

Stone walls and pastures

Tony going through the narrow gate.

I stopped on the hill heading down to the next pasture and watched the farmer and his dogs expertly round up a flock of sheep and take them to a new pasture.

Farmer and dogs rounding up sheep

Tony watched and waited below

We didn’t stop at Elaine’s Country Kitchen for lunch, because we thought we could get some in the next town, Marske, which was our day’s halfway point.

Crossing narrow footbridge

Our path continued traversing through fields and gates.

Walking through fields

Hay bales

Marske Hall

There was not much to the town of Marske and certainly no place to get food. Luckily we had brought Balance Bars, or we would go hungry.

Town of Marske some charming stone Buildings, but no food or drink.

We met Wolf and Nicola on the road past Marske and we all searched for the hidden signpost. It brought us into pasture lands with warnings about cows with their calves.  You could see a white cairn on the hill ahead.

We carefully skirted the edge of this pasture as it was filled with cows and young calves. The pasture was fenced and we climbed the stiles and followed the trail down a stepped path to the stream where we crossed Paddy’s Bridge.

Trail in pasture dips down to a stream and climbs back up to white cairn on top 

Paddy’s Bridge

Once we crossed the bridge it was back uphill following the path as it lead to the white cairn.

The white cairn and looking back at valley.

On road by Applegate Farm

Applegate farmland

Path on Applegate farmlands

Signpost

Applegate farm continues

Whitecliffe Woods ahead

It was lovely and cool in Whitecliffe Woods, a very welcome respite from this rather hot day in northern England.

Whitecliffe Woods

Out of the wood walking on a wide track above the valley, we could see Richmond. Off the road a footpath lead right into town.

First views of Richmond

Views of Richmond

Footpath to Richmond

Almost there

Sign as we entered west end of Richmond

Our B & B is the Rosedale Bed and  breakfast, a charming Georgian House in town. Before we got there we stopped at a Pharmacy for some more foot plasters for my blisters and at a pub for a cold pint for Tony.

Tony having his first cold pint

Our b & b

We had a lovely dinner at the Turf and are now resting and soon to be asleep,for tomorrow is another adventure!

Our stay at the Keld Lodge Inn was delightful. Excellent staff, the best meal of my whole trip so far at dinner, and a wonderful breakfast Wednesday morning.

Many of our fellow walkers were staying there too. Met two sisters who were walking the trail in three sections (3 different national parks)  taking a week for each section during the course of this year.  It was the 50th birthday wish of one sister and the other sister turns 60 next year, so she was also up for a life affirming challenge.  They were taking the day off in Keld and bringing their dogs down to a little waterfall and swimming hole we passed as we came into Keld.

Our walk today was to be the valley route rather than the high route. It was to be 11 miles. The low easy route ended up being 14 miles with a 1,160 foot climb. It was a warm sunny day in low 80s which is SO much better than rain. However, there are very few trees so most of the time you were in the hot sun. Glad I brought my hat!

The village of Keld is just a small collection of stone buildings in the middle of green hills.

Keld

Tony leaving Keld

Leaving Keld

Of course we had to go uphill

Rabbits everywhere

Looking back at Keld

Right after the ruin and bridge the way split into a high route and a low route. Of course in front of us were three paths. We made very sure we took the Valley Route.

Ruined stone structure

bridge by the falls

After a bit we were on a lovely mostly flat track  along side the stream. I thought, well this is perfect for a warm day. I could do THIS for miles.

Finally saw trees around us, but some were quite odd looking. No shade on the path except for when it narrowed and dipped down by the river.

Odd looking tree – Ent maybe?

I crossed the narrow footbridge to Muker, but realized my error and came back on the path.

Bridge to Muker

The path followed the river with some ups and downs through farmlands.

Walking by river through farmlands.

Stopped and ate our sandwiches

When we arrived at Gunnerside we stopped at the Ghyllfont Tearooms. Tony had a cold pint and I had a scone with homemade jam and cream…..my first for this whole trip! It was delicious!

Tearoom

After our lovely respite the path took us to the Heights. Nothing more conducive to good digestion then a stiff uphill climb. The views were beautiful as we rose higher over the family and could look back on the village. I just wish my feet and thighs could appreciate the fabulous vistas.

Looking back at the via age from whence we came

We had not seen anyone else we knew who were walking this route for hours. We check our map often and stayed on course. Tony looked for what direction the route took us. I was all about the landmarks, finding them on the trail to locate where we were and where we should go.

Tony checking the map

We were on a road for a while after the moors. It was a one lane track littered with rabbit corpses. The town of Healaugh signaled our turn off to a footpath along the river.

Toads Croak in Healaugh

Footpath to Reeth

Our B & B is the Springfield house, which is just up the road from the pub. My feet were very happy to have my shoes off. We cleaned up and had supper at the pub. Another walk awaits tomorrow, so I need to sleep.

My bed for the night.

Lovely stay at the Manor House with Jean. Had a delicious breakfast this morning after a search for Tony’s fit bit that got knocked off his person as he lugged our suitcases downstairs. I needed to stop pharmacy for foot plasters and some cold meds. Got the stuff for my blisters, but no cold medicine. Tony passed his cold onto me as it kept me awake a bit during the night.

Tony and Jean in the kitchen.

Sitting room at the Manor House

Tony found the way through the narrow streets to Frank’s Bridge.

Leaving Kirkby Stephen

View for Frank’s Bridge

Phil and Amy Timberlake, fellow travelers on the Coast to Coast

The route started uphill pretty quickly. It was a steady but not too steep climb on a road at first.

Uphill past the Quarry

Looking back

The smooth tarmac ends and the roads covered in rocks reappeared. My blistered feet were not too happy.

Rocky roads, but not too bad. Lovely views.

It does get rougher and a bit steeper.

Steeper and rougher.

We chose the green route which is lower, and more easy to avoid bogs. I was feeling a bit funky and did not want to have to worry about being sucked into a mud hole too.

We still had to make our way uphill some more. The Green route hugged the wall in parts, but there were dips and bowls in the path that were a bit boggy and required careful footing in many places unless you wanted to fall in the hole or mud.

Since we were staying in Tebay which is off the Coast to Coast route, we were given a ride back to the route by our host at the School House Inn. We met their two charming young sons who were helping with breakfast. One of them told me he was the Toast Meister. He earned that title well, as the toast he brought to us was perfect.

Tony on Knott Lane leaving Orton

We stopped in the field off of Knot Lane to walk around the Stone Circle. No other information was available about its history. I find these circles inspiring.

Stone circle

Doorway of ruined building

We then walked through pasture after pasture climbing stiles through each one. One pasture had a warning sign that there was a bull in the field. We walked through anyway. Glad I did not wear my red cape.

Peahens by the path

There were some more signs now for the Coast to Coast, but often there were a few different tracks of tamped down grass to chose from. It required careful checking of maps and still you could find yourself off track.

Tony on bridge

We had a bit a navigating to find our accommodations, but it was worth the extra walking.

The Manor House

Black Bull

After we cleaned up we had a good dinner at the Black Bull.