Our stay at the Keld Lodge Inn was delightful. Excellent staff, the best meal of my whole trip so far at dinner, and a wonderful breakfast Wednesday morning.
Many of our fellow walkers were staying there too. Met two sisters who were walking the trail in three sections (3 different national parks) taking a week for each section during the course of this year. It was the 50th birthday wish of one sister and the other sister turns 60 next year, so she was also up for a life affirming challenge. They were taking the day off in Keld and bringing their dogs down to a little waterfall and swimming hole we passed as we came into Keld.
Our walk today was to be the valley route rather than the high route. It was to be 11 miles. The low easy route ended up being 14 miles with a 1,160 foot climb. It was a warm sunny day in low 80s which is SO much better than rain. However, there are very few trees so most of the time you were in the hot sun. Glad I brought my hat!
The village of Keld is just a small collection of stone buildings in the middle of green hills.
Right after the ruin and bridge the way split into a high route and a low route. Of course in front of us were three paths. We made very sure we took the Valley Route.
After a bit we were on a lovely mostly flat track along side the stream. I thought, well this is perfect for a warm day. I could do THIS for miles.
Finally saw trees around us, but some were quite odd looking. No shade on the path except for when it narrowed and dipped down by the river.
I crossed the narrow footbridge to Muker, but realized my error and came back on the path.
The path followed the river with some ups and downs through farmlands.
When we arrived at Gunnerside we stopped at the Ghyllfont Tearooms. Tony had a cold pint and I had a scone with homemade jam and cream…..my first for this whole trip! It was delicious!
After our lovely respite the path took us to the Heights. Nothing more conducive to good digestion then a stiff uphill climb. The views were beautiful as we rose higher over the family and could look back on the village. I just wish my feet and thighs could appreciate the fabulous vistas.
We had not seen anyone else we knew who were walking this route for hours. We check our map often and stayed on course. Tony looked for what direction the route took us. I was all about the landmarks, finding them on the trail to locate where we were and where we should go.
We were on a road for a while after the moors. It was a one lane track littered with rabbit corpses. The town of Healaugh signaled our turn off to a footpath along the river.
Our B & B is the Springfield house, which is just up the road from the pub. My feet were very happy to have my shoes off. We cleaned up and had supper at the pub. Another walk awaits tomorrow, so I need to sleep.
Loverly …who knew you’d become such a master map-reader
Survival sometimes requires that you develop heretofore unthought of skills.