Tony, Coconut and I went for a 3.78 mile walk on the walking/bike path from the Cardiovascular Center on Bon Air in Larkspur to Piper Park in Corte Madera. We walked on the path along the water, on what was once the old railroad route, and through some neighborhoods.
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Wednesday July 24 – Egton Bridge to Robin Hood’s Bay
We made it! Too tire to post tonight. Pics etc will come.
Tony and I were determined not to make our longest scheduled walk longer than necessary. Our last leg was to be 16 miles, but often the routes were much longer even when we stayed on track. We both agreed to check the map often and to voice any concern about our route right away. We had breakfast in the Solarium at the Old Mill and headed out. It was muggy and warm and seemed to threaten rain.
Tuesday July 23 – Blakey Ridge to Egton Bridge
The Lion Inn is a lovely old place, built like a rabbit warren. The bathrooms and bedrooms are updated and very nice. Breakfast was delicious with fresh eggs, bacon, and toast. We looked over our maps and started out with high hopes of a shorter day on the road.
Unlike Monday we made our mistake right at the beginning rather than waiting to the last bit. We knew we should see White Betty which our map shows as a cross. In our eagerness to see Betty we overlooked our turn and took the next right. Our little mistake added 4 miles to our day. A twelve miler became an unfortunate 16. Just as we turned around into the wind it began to rain with a bit more intent.
Once we got to the real White Betty, we were on the right track and looked VERY carefully for the right signs.
We had a turn off the road by the carved stone up the Great Fryup Lane.
We had occasional showers and kept putting on and taking off our rain jackets. It wasn’t cold, but occasionally it got windy.
We took the track to the right while road went to left.
There were lots of tracks and paths off this road. We kept looking for the tarn, but it seemed a long time before it appeared.
Egton Bridge is absolutely charming with its stately stone buildings, gorgeous gardens, and charming, but in need of repair bridge.
Monday July 22 – Clay Bank to Blakey Ridge
Yet again, we managed to turn a 9.5 mile hike into 14 mile jaunt. I slept nine much needed hours and we had planned a later breakfast and start due to the shorter route. The morning was misty and cool, perfect for walking, but not so great for visibility.
Our host’s friend Gary drove us back to the start of Clay bank where we had been picked up yesterday, worn, weary, and sore. We immediately took the wrong trail which Tony realized when he glanced to the right and saw the stone pavers for our ascent up Clay Bank Top. Instead of going back down Tony elected to take a short cut, through a thicket, cut down tree limbs, and a climb over a stone fence. Oh yeah, we were off to a famous start!
The start began immediately climbing steeply up hill on rocks placed to form a madman’s idea of a stair.
The weather was still cool with mist obscuring all the distant vistas. We were high up on the moor, but could barely see beyond the marked path at times. I can’t imagine how disorienting it could be before these well made paths were placed.
After that group of young men we saw no other hikers along the way.
There were sheep spread out across the moor. We also were quite surprised to see headlights.
We kept looking at the maps checking to make sure we were on track or to locate where we were.
We were still back on map 80 when we came to this sign So we didn’t turn.
We did get to see this nice view.
After walking quite a way, realizing we saw none of the signs we should, we turned around and headed back. By then we sort of figured out our mistake.
Had a much needed shower and supper. Now I am heading for bed. No wifi in room or I’d already be there. Tomorrow another adventure!
Sunday July 21 – Inglebyb Cross to Clay Bank Top/Great Broughton
Today’s 12.5 mile walk ended up being 18.85 miles and a climb of 3,120 feet. It was a tough one. Only my hard headed stubbornness kept me going toward the end.
It really started out beautifully too. The Swan is a delightful place to stay with lovely rooms, good hot showers, excellent food, and delightful owners. Tony and I had a yummy breakfast and Christine dropped us off by where she picked us up yesterday so we,could continue our walk.
Saturday July 20 – Danby Wiske to Ingleby Cross
Slept beautifully with an open window wafting cool breezes over my bed, just how I like it. Another delicious breakfast was enjoyed and we set out on the road again.
We saw two pairs of joggers and several cyclists heading back toward Danby Wiske as we walked out of town.
Right before Lazenby Farm there was a bridge over a railway and a passenger train went rocketing by. It was an interesting contrast to my slow pace and the calm and quiet of the country road.
The route was different than our map, but a large sign showed us where to turn. Instead of crossing a farmers field, we were directed down a lane past the farms.
We turned off the road onto a track to a farm. The signage on this part of our walk was really quite good.
We had to climb over the gate and then walk on this rickety board bridge over a deep but dry trench. Sometimes it felt like a par course.
There was a couple outside a some dogs who barked at us. I told them I liked the skull. The young man just looked chagrined, I am probably old enough to be his grandmum.
We met a fellow hiker sitting on the steps on the other side having an early lunch. We had crossed paths itch him before.
Shortly after we crossed the tracks a train hurtled by itch a couple crossing just ahead of it. They had been doing the Coast to Coast on weekends. They expected to finish on a weekend in August. This British couple were a lot less footsore than us!
We followed a farm road as it twisted and turned like a snake through farms.
We almost missed our turnoff because we weren’t impressed by the posts.
Friday July 19 – Richmond to Danby Wiske
Slept well, but not long enough. I do like eight hours of good sleep. It was too hot to go to sleep early and it also stays light quite late. The sun is up before 5:00 am and I usually find myself getting up around 6:00.
We had another delicious breakfast with fresh fruit, Greek yogurt, fresh eggs, bacon, and sausage. Can not be eating anything other than the yogurt and fruit when I get home! Our walk today was listed as a easy 14 mile hike. On the way out of town we stopped by The Greyfriars Tower and the Richmond Castle.
As we were walking on the road, which actually had a sidewalk, we saw three young ladies riding their horses on the roadway.
Shortly after that there were signposts leading us off the road to follow the Coast To Coast through some woods.
Once out of the lovely shady woods, we walked through tracks of land.
The path then took us along a shady route high above the River Swale. I kept my eyes to my right rather than looking down to the River far below.
At St Mary’s Church they had cold drinks and snacks for hikers. A donation to the church was appreciated, but it was just take a drink from the small fridge, replace it inside with another, and leave your donation in the box.
At the church they also had maps and pins. They asked you place a pin on the map to show where you came from. The map of the UK had quite of few pins. The U.S. A. had many pins as well, on the west coast and east coast the map was covered in pins.
We walked on the long but quiet road for Quite Long time!
We saw the treehouse and knew soon we would be off road again.
The White Swan was a delightful place with a congenial host, who was also a very good cook. Our room was much larger than other places too. Slept beautifully.
Thursday July 18 – Reeth to Richmond
Lovely breakfast and good company with our hosts, Denise and Bob, and of course Tony. Morning sunny with a cool breeze, but the day will again be quite warm. Our hike today is listed as 12 1/2 miles – “a simple walk”.
After walking through a bit of the village we headed for the footpath along the stream. Farmlands were all around us too.
The path continued and the stream joined the River Swale. We saw a man throwing sticks into the water for his dog to chase. It was already warm and tempting to join them.
Our path then took us down by the river on a narrow, steep, muddy, rocky and thankfully short walk that left us on a farm road.
We were off the mapped route, but a nice older cople assured us that the road lead to the Marrick Priory.
We met two shirtless, strapping young men by the Priory. They were doing the Coast to Coast in 8 days as a fund raiser for prostate cancer research. Their leg of the trip for today was 30 miles! One offered to take picture of us.
After we left the Priory we headed onto a path that lead uphill. The Nuns’ steps offered some lovely shade and a fairly sure footed climb up above the valley.
We passed through a collection of buildings which make up the village of Marrick.
Then we were once again walking through pastures, and climbing gates and stiles.
I stopped on the hill heading down to the next pasture and watched the farmer and his dogs expertly round up a flock of sheep and take them to a new pasture.
We didn’t stop at Elaine’s Country Kitchen for lunch, because we thought we could get some in the next town, Marske, which was our day’s halfway point.
Our path continued traversing through fields and gates.
There was not much to the town of Marske and certainly no place to get food. Luckily we had brought Balance Bars, or we would go hungry.
We met Wolf and Nicola on the road past Marske and we all searched for the hidden signpost. It brought us into pasture lands with warnings about cows with their calves. You could see a white cairn on the hill ahead.
We carefully skirted the edge of this pasture as it was filled with cows and young calves. The pasture was fenced and we climbed the stiles and followed the trail down a stepped path to the stream where we crossed Paddy’s Bridge.
Once we crossed the bridge it was back uphill following the path as it lead to the white cairn.
It was lovely and cool in Whitecliffe Woods, a very welcome respite from this rather hot day in northern England.
Out of the wood walking on a wide track above the valley, we could see Richmond. Off the road a footpath lead right into town.
Our B & B is the Rosedale Bed and breakfast, a charming Georgian House in town. Before we got there we stopped at a Pharmacy for some more foot plasters for my blisters and at a pub for a cold pint for Tony.
We had a lovely dinner at the Turf and are now resting and soon to be asleep,for tomorrow is another adventure!
Wednesday July 17 – Keld to Reeth
Our stay at the Keld Lodge Inn was delightful. Excellent staff, the best meal of my whole trip so far at dinner, and a wonderful breakfast Wednesday morning.
Many of our fellow walkers were staying there too. Met two sisters who were walking the trail in three sections (3 different national parks) taking a week for each section during the course of this year. It was the 50th birthday wish of one sister and the other sister turns 60 next year, so she was also up for a life affirming challenge. They were taking the day off in Keld and bringing their dogs down to a little waterfall and swimming hole we passed as we came into Keld.
Our walk today was to be the valley route rather than the high route. It was to be 11 miles. The low easy route ended up being 14 miles with a 1,160 foot climb. It was a warm sunny day in low 80s which is SO much better than rain. However, there are very few trees so most of the time you were in the hot sun. Glad I brought my hat!
The village of Keld is just a small collection of stone buildings in the middle of green hills.
Right after the ruin and bridge the way split into a high route and a low route. Of course in front of us were three paths. We made very sure we took the Valley Route.
After a bit we were on a lovely mostly flat track along side the stream. I thought, well this is perfect for a warm day. I could do THIS for miles.
Finally saw trees around us, but some were quite odd looking. No shade on the path except for when it narrowed and dipped down by the river.
I crossed the narrow footbridge to Muker, but realized my error and came back on the path.
The path followed the river with some ups and downs through farmlands.
When we arrived at Gunnerside we stopped at the Ghyllfont Tearooms. Tony had a cold pint and I had a scone with homemade jam and cream…..my first for this whole trip! It was delicious!
After our lovely respite the path took us to the Heights. Nothing more conducive to good digestion then a stiff uphill climb. The views were beautiful as we rose higher over the family and could look back on the village. I just wish my feet and thighs could appreciate the fabulous vistas.
We had not seen anyone else we knew who were walking this route for hours. We check our map often and stayed on course. Tony looked for what direction the route took us. I was all about the landmarks, finding them on the trail to locate where we were and where we should go.
We were on a road for a while after the moors. It was a one lane track littered with rabbit corpses. The town of Healaugh signaled our turn off to a footpath along the river.
Our B & B is the Springfield house, which is just up the road from the pub. My feet were very happy to have my shoes off. We cleaned up and had supper at the pub. Another walk awaits tomorrow, so I need to sleep.
Tuesday July 16 – Kirkby Stephen to Keld
Lovely stay at the Manor House with Jean. Had a delicious breakfast this morning after a search for Tony’s fit bit that got knocked off his person as he lugged our suitcases downstairs. I needed to stop pharmacy for foot plasters and some cold meds. Got the stuff for my blisters, but no cold medicine. Tony passed his cold onto me as it kept me awake a bit during the night.
Tony found the way through the narrow streets to Frank’s Bridge.
The route started uphill pretty quickly. It was a steady but not too steep climb on a road at first.
The smooth tarmac ends and the roads covered in rocks reappeared. My blistered feet were not too happy.
It does get rougher and a bit steeper.
We chose the green route which is lower, and more easy to avoid bogs. I was feeling a bit funky and did not want to have to worry about being sucked into a mud hole too.
We still had to make our way uphill some more. The Green route hugged the wall in parts, but there were dips and bowls in the path that were a bit boggy and required careful footing in many places unless you wanted to fall in the hole or mud.